Making a 1800 Short Gown

My dress wouldn't be complete without a short gown of the period, so here it is !

I've done research as usual before starting anything, first of all searching for authentic pieces for inspiration. I found these ones I liked :

 Shortgown, 1790s - 1810s.

Amsterdam Museum, 1800s.

 Netherlands, 1800s.

For pattern I sticked with Janet Arnold's "Morning dress c.1798 - 1805", I already used it on my previous gowns which can be seen here  and I modified the front pieces using this pattern found on pinterest : 

I used white heavy cotton fabric, and opted for a front opening tied under the bust and also up the breast. The sleeves are simple and straight, I first wanted to go for curved ones like spencer sleeves, but I admit it I was too lazy to figure out how to make them fit onto this bodice.
Everything is handsewn as always, I didn't get the chance to take my sewing machine with me to Paris so I do it the old way, and it's historically accurate so that's fine for me!

I didn't take pictures of the process, I did this short gown in a hurry because I have less than 20 days to make a French Napoleonic uniform to my boyfriend, and entirely handsewn so I apologize for the lack of "under progress" photos.

Overall I hope you all liked it, I did my best and experienced at the same time, taking risks since it's the first one I ever made.

Until next time !

1805 Provençal cretonne dress and new shoes!

I've been spending a lot of time on pinterest lately, searching for fashion plates and I have to say I found quite a lot of nice ones. I had the idea of provençal regency clothing because I play a provençal washerwoman at reenactment. I knew there was specific 18th century clothing from that province of France, but ignored that in fact there was 19th century too.

It is characterized by a fabric called cretonne, which is a strong cotton cloth with a very specific print such as this :

A close-up for a better view of the print:

And here are my two favourite fashion plates I found on Pinterest :

 

Amsterdam, 1807.

 

Washerwomen, one of them is wearing a provençal cap. 

I will be making the red dress and the blue spencer as seen on the plate above.

For the dress, I'm using as always the bib-front pattern from Janet Arnold from her "Patterns of fashion" with some alterations, since I am sewing a working class dress there won't be a train and also short simple sleeves.

So far, I finished the bodice and have attached the back of the skirt to the bodice. Everything is handsewn so it takes a lot of time to make, but I prefer it instead of machine stitches which I find breaks a lot easier.

I also bought regency looking shoes from amazon, and I love them, they're perfect for a working class lady. The shipping was very fast, I received them in a week, and also the price is very interesting! I ordered the brown ones, but I will definitely buy more shades.
You can purchase them here :

http://www.amazon.com/Ollio-Womens-Comfort-Pointed-Oxford/dp/B00GXMEC8A/?ref=pd_sbs_shoe_21&ie=UTF8&refRID=19TYMTPVSNH1FTTRJYNH

And here are some pictures :

The back finished. The lighting makes it look pink, but in real it is red.

That's all for now, until next time ;)

1812s Bardin Vest : Pattern and first steps

The 29th May, my boyfriend and I are going to a reenactment in Montmirail. It's about the battle of Montmirail, which happened under the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte, in 1814 between the French, Russians and Prussians. It will be my second time participating into a reenactment, and this one is going to be a big deal so I am super exited!

He'll be dressed as a french soldier of the 37th infantry regiment, so I decided to sew him the missing parts of his complete uniform, which enchanted him I have to say since napoleonic unifrom are quite expenssive!

Here is what I will be making:

- A bardin vest (which is like a habit vest, the only difference is that it goes staight down the bust insted of being incurved) made in 100% woolen fabric, it was very important for me that the woolen fabric doesn't have a hint of synthetic into it, I want to be as historically accurate as possible.

- A 1812's gilet à manches (which is a sleeved waistcoat) in white/cream woolen fabric

- A pokalem hat in woolen fabric

- A pair of grey gaiters

 

Private collection of Mr Dawson

Another exemple of Bardin vest

 

Gilet à manche, Infantery of the Legion, 1815

The actual gilet à manches that I will be reproducing and a great exemple of the Pokalem hat.

Enlarging a pattern is in my opinion the most time consuming part about sewing, it is a task I do with unpleasure and I get pissed at it very easily. Yet it is very important to make sure the pattern corresponds perfectly to the measurements given to you. 

I found on the net one for the bardin vest and another for the habit vest. I've combined most of them, using the chest area of the habit vest, the sleeves and decorations of the bardin one. 

 

And here are some pictures of the work under progress : 

                                  

That's all for the moment, I have 2 more weeks to finish all 4 pieces, hopefully it wil be done before !